Given the rate of closures, complaints from NIMBYs and a general sense of dread, London needs as much positive news about its nightlife as it can get. So all power to initiatives that combine good food and drink with live music, such as Soul Mama, a new venue in Stratford.
Handily located on Celebration Avenue, right next to Westfield Stratford City in E20, it’s well-positioned for post-shopping dining, drinking…and possibly dancing.
Soul Mama is attached to a hotel, but you wouldn’t know it. You step into a well-crafted ambience, mellow and thoughtful table lighting and a prominent front stage that puts music at the heart of the experience.
No surprises, then, that it’s a project of saxophonist and composer YolanDa Brown OBE. And, thank God, it’s not just bland burgers and bar snacks on the menu.
The food is led by executive head chef, Aleandro Brown (ex-The Connaught, Maze Grill, Sketch, The Ritz) whose cooking brings together African, Caribbean and South American cuisine. It’s bloody good.
If the music is anything to go by, they’re on to a winner on that front too (the band supported the late blues legend BB King, which is a decent boast). The roster covers jazz, soul, gospel, reggae and more, and is well worth exploring in order to find an evening when the sounds will match your tastes.
I went for the three course affair, at £65 a head. That’s quite steep, but the portions are generous, with a great selection of arepas, wings and fish dishes (though sweet-tooths be warned – just two desert options).
My wife, who came with me, is a meat-eater. She gave a rave review to the wonderfully tender beef arepa, seasoned with African spices. It was complemented by sweetcorn and a cracking chilli sauce. For vegetarians, such as me, the mushroom arepa provides a nice combination of sweet and spicy, though it pales in comparison to the jerk cauliflower dish that’s my main.
The latter, I was glad to see, was massive. Why go stingy on cauliflower and plantain? It hosts perfectly-cooked mushrooms and an excellently-balanced mango sauce.
We got the roti too, which arrived soft, warm, and well-seasoned, while the “10 wings” my wife ordered was a bigger dish than it sounds. Though service remains…relaxed, the quality of the food makes up for the wait. It’s all gravy. Or rather, it’s all jerk sauce.
Soul Mama is open all week, but the venue is truly alive on Friday (and I imagine Saturday) nights, with doors opening at 6:30 and bands starting at around eight.
There were a few teething issues during my visit, but they were very forgivable. The venue isn’t understaffed, but it sometimes felt that way. It took about 30 minutes to hail someone to order food. My advice is to get a drink from the bar and then be diligent in waving down a waiter.
And while portion sizes are generous, the kitchen’s practice of serving all dishes when they’re ready (in other words, often simultaneously) does affect the dining experience, considering you’re likely to be there for several hours to listen to the music. That golden duality – prompt service but a more measured pace of eating – would transform this place from good to great.
Minor quibbles aside, Soul Mama is a valuable addition to London’s music and dining scene. Long may it grow and prosper. To help that happen, give it a visit next time you’re around Westfield.
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