Josiah Mortimer: The special charm of the Royal Cocktail Exchange

Josiah Mortimer: The special charm of the Royal Cocktail Exchange

The best bars tend to be built around a simple premise. When I think of my favourites, they offer something unique that sticks in the mind: the miniature-looking Duke of Edinburgh in Brixton, with its surprisingly epic beer garden; the George in Southwark, owned by the National Trust; or the Mayflower in Rotherhithe, which seems to hover over the Thames like a limpet. Outside of the capital, Falmouth’s Beerwolf has a bookshop attached.

What would the Royal Cocktail Exchange near Goodge Street station provide? Candle-lit and atmospheric, it was quiet when my companion and I turned up on 2 January, with most office workers not yet back to the daily grind. There was plenty of time to talk cocktail options with the staff.

I went first for the Cherry Blossom Vesper, a standout creation featuring gin, peach vermouth, cherry blossom Belvedere and the king of the Japanese beverages, umeshu, a plum liqueur. Umeshu is sweet, so the vermouth set it off nicely. It was translucent, but impressively complex.

My tasting comrade went for the Dry-Aged Manhattan, a solid choice for whisky enthusiasts, crafted with rye grain spirit. While quite sweet for a whisky cocktail, the inclusion of yellow mustard miso was interesting. Thankfully, it was appropriately subtle – any stronger would have overwhelmed you in umami.

Round two (for us, at least) was a Mango Lassi Flip, and a Gangster’s Paradise. The former is a fun one. You drink it through a sieve. I’m fond of the odd gimmick, when used in moderation, and it works because the cocktail is delicious.

It combines Hennessy VS, spiced mango, egg yolk and Jägermeister, giving a creamy texture with a cardamom kick. I could drink a gallon of it, and probably gain a stone in the process.

The Gangster’s Paradise features Volcan tequila, coconut, ginger, oleo and peppered mango soda. They like their funky mango twists here, but it’s a good balance with the tequila, creating a very drinkable highball.

My companion, by this time a little squiffy, tidied up with a Newport Sour – essentially a Welsh Cake in cocktail form. It’s a creative concoction incorporating kombu bourbon, raisin syrup, a port and sherry blend. An actual Welsh Cake was the garnish. Dipping is discouraged, but strangely irresistible.

All of which would be lovely on its own, but the highlight was the samosas – this particular bar’s simple premise, and one that works. It charges £8.50 for two, including a dip, but they are of generous size, and the best samosas I’ve had. Even if you’ve eaten earlier, eating them is non-negotiable, and go very well with any of the mango-infused drinks.

Royal Cocktail Exchange gets a thumbs up from me. It is ambient, central, and the staff seem to enjoy their well-honed craft.

I don’t know if this always happens, but if it doesn’t, it should. When I returned from checking out the downstairs floor, a shot of mezcal was waiting for me, as smoky as a saloon bar in a Clint Eastwood film, and with more heads blown off. They’re on to a winner.

The Royal Cocktail Exchange is at 31 Windmill Street, W1T 2JN. All cocktails cost £12.50.

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