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The On London discussion: What is – and should be – the future of the bus service?

As Deputy Mayor for Transport Seb Dance writes in his Foreword to Transport for London’s Bus Action Plan, London’s buses are “the most commonly used form of public transport in the capital” yet also “often the unsung hero of London’s transport system”. He added that he is determined that the bus network shall “meet the needs of Londoners over the next decade”.

What are those challenges and how will they be met? Put another way, what is the future of London’s bus service and what should it be?

Those were the questions addressed at Tuesday evening’s On London Zoom discussion event by a panel composed of John Trayner, managing director of bus operating company Go-Ahead London, Alan Hannaford, also known as London Reconnections contributor Pedantic of Purley, Seb Dance himself and TfL’s former surface transport managing director Leon Daniels, who stepped up to the role of a super-sub after Seb was called away on urgent work-related business and unable to be with us from the start.

The context was a general decline in bus use in the past five or six years and – a more immediate concern – TfL’s bus review proposals for cutting the number of kilometres covered by bus services by 4% in order to make savings demanded by the government. And with ridership yet to recover to its pre-Covid levels there are concerns that the bus service – which, as audience members and panelists pointed out, is a transport mode used by every type of Londoner, including its least well-off – could remain on a regrettable downward path.

Given these circumstances, John Trayner was relatively upbeat. He said ridership has been edging up towards 90% of what it used to be and that when TfL makes its final decision about the changes it proposed – which will not now be until January at the earliest – the outcome might not be as bad as feared.

That is partly because there were “a lot of objections”, which he thinks took TfL and City Hall by surprise but, more gloomily, because “there’s a lot of cuts that have happened already. I’m down probably 10% from my peak vehicle requirement over the last three years”, with “fewer buses and a less frequent service” on a number of lines, notably routes 521 and 507 out of Waterloo.

Leon Daniels spoke of changes to the use of road space which began during his time at TfL under the mayoral policies of Boris Johnson and have contributed to “a significant reduction in traffic speeds” that has slowed buses down. That was because “we were digging up the streets and reassigning road space to make more space for walking and cycling”. As a consequence “bus speeds worsened because there was less carriageway space for them to be in” and also “in some cases the bus priority measures that had previously been there weren’t there any more”.

He agreed with Trayner that forthcoming changes to the service will be “much softer than the ones threatened in the consultation”, which had achieved “exactly what it was designed to do. It was designed to be provocative, it was designed to get people really angry and to write in and complain, which was all part of the row between TfL and the government about funding”. It is a point Daniels has also made writing for On London.

Service cuts, as the title of the bus review implies, are likely to be to central London services. TfL commissioner Andy Byford told the London Assembly transport committee as much the other week. Is that necessarily a bad thing?

Alan Hannaford, drawing on arguments he made in a recent article, maintained that it need not be. More provision for walking and cycling, along with the advent of the Elizabeth Line, have lessened the need for such a generous bus service, he felt, and with many buses still using diesel fuel their presence in West End streets can make their environment less pleasant for shoppers and visitors.

He also thought it has become more difficult to justify current bus service levels because the country is “in an awful place financially”. Revealing that being a bus conductor had been his first job, he stressed: “I’d love to see more buses and buses being used, but I have to think the reality is going to be we won’t be awash with buses ever again”. However, he added that any further service cuts should not be done in such a way “that we can’t build them up again should that demand return”.

Members of the audience made a number of points, including a challenge to Leon Daniels’s suggestion that bus fares are “a bit less price sensitive than people think”. Using a light-hearted example to make a serious point, he suggested that the cost of a single fare could be pegged to “the price of a medium latte in Starbucks” and that whenever that goes up the bus fare would go up too. “People will pay £3.50 to have a cup of hot water with coffee stirred into it, so why on earth is the bus fare held down at £1.65?”

But one of the On London supporters present objected that for people on low pay that would be too much. She also argued that if buses sometimes having few passengers is seen as problematic, so should empty bicycle lanes, which, in contrast to “inclusive” buses, serve a predominantly white, male and affluent demographic.

Another supporter, although a frequent cyclist, took an even stronger line against bike lanes, saying that bus lanes have been removed to make way for them under both Mayor Johnson and Mayor Khan and should be restored. Critical of what he sees as the undue influence of cycling campaigners, he contended that the bus service is being “ruined by this small clique of people”.

Other audience contributors emphasised the need to find the right balance between different street transport modes, the correct tailoring to demand, and the optimum integration of them all. “Having more buses is not in and of itself a good thing,” one said. “The aim should be getting people where they need to go with maximum ease. We need to think about a whole system approach with certain goals in mind.”

Another pointed out that low bus fares are essential for people who have to travel for an hour or more to get to a cleaning job and that the overarching mission of transport policies should be “movement and moving people harmoniously and equitably around” with buses being highly equitable and also sustainable, as they use road space so efficiently.

“In that ten metre by three metre footprint of the bus I am the most efficient mover of people,” Trayner confirmed. Yet London has been increasingly unable to take maximum advantage of that great strength as road space has become more cluttered and constrained. Daniels described himself and Peter Hendy, who was TfL commissioner for most of his time with the transport agency recently driving by bus the old Route 37 from Hounslow to Peckham. In 1966, that journey took 90 minutes, Daniels said, but it took him and his erstwhile colleague three hours: “That’s an example of how bus services have become unattractive.”

Culprits identified for this included what Daniels called “the huge growth of freight and private hire vehicles” on the roads, along with the boom in home delivery services. “Some white vans are delivering parcels to people at offices because they weren’t at home to receive them,” he said. “It is time to swing the balance back the other way and give the six million bus passengers a day a simple and more reliable service, and in terms of bus priority measures.”

Seb Dance was able to join the event towards its end, for which On London was very grateful. Having ascertained that his last minute urgent appointment was not with Rishi Sunak and that the new Prime Minister, still conducting his cabinet reshuffle at that point, had not contrived a way to make the former Labour MEP his new transport secretary, he disagreed that cycling is “the key problem”.

On the contrary, as the Bus Action Plan sets out, Dance believes a greater take-up of cycling is part of the answer to the greatest problem for buses, which he defined as “unnecessary car journeys” and said “there is a lot of capacity for additional routes for active transport, for options for walking and cycling”.

He said that 71% of car journeys in London lasting less than an hour could be taken by bicycle instead and that if they were “you would free up huge amounts of space for the bus network, as well, of course, as having additional space for those car journeys which are necessary”.

Asked if the single biggest answer to reducing car use would be a London-wide “smart” road-user charging system, Dance said he was “very wary of saying, yes that will solve everything” but that it could be “a key answer” and “probably a better solution to the myriad policies we have at the moment”. However, he stressed that such an innovation is a long way off.

For Dance, transport policy should be about encouraging the “holy trinity” of bus, cycle and walking at the top of a transport hierarchy in which the private motor vehicle is placed “very low”. Success in this would also entail “changing people’s perception about what freedom is,” he said. “It is really fundamental. We’ve had 80, 100 years of ingrained belief that the car represents freedom. Now, being able to travel in and out of central London or travelling around outer London without your car, and. when you really need your car, having the space to travel on the road – that is freedom in the context of a city. That’s real freedom. Trying to change the perception of what it is to be free and live in a western society, that is really the fundamental problem we have”.

Where buses in particular are concerned, there are some other types of challenge too. Leon Daniels, these days a sought-after transport consultant, pointed out that “a significant part of the London bus service is provided by private contractors owned overseas – in Singapore, in Australia, in France, in Germany. These people have billions to invest. They are the ones who buy the property, who buy the vehicles, who buy the charging infrastructures for electric vehicles”.

He warned that London – and, indeed, the UK as a whole – is becoming “a very unattractive place” for them to put their money into. Why? Because we’ve got “serious inflation” and a “zero available labour force” because due to “Brexit or Covid they all went home”. Also: “In many cities around the world the transport companies are being sheltered from unplanned labour costs and unplanned energy inflation by the transport agency responsible. There is a message there that London must keep up with the other cities around the world.”

Daniels also said that in the new transport cost and demand climate “we might have to be more radical on fares and indeed on service patterns,” including by deploying available technology to “flex the fares” so that the current single-price bus fare – a relatively recent phenomenon – disappears. Alan Hannaford called for a refreshment of bus information services, which he said have deteriorated since Daniels and Hendy’s time – an issue On London might take up.

Even so, John Trayner maintained an optimistic note. He sensed a modest shift away from Covid-induced working from home and was confident that, in the longer term, “population growth will continue,” making a top quality public transport system as vital to London as ever, with the bus at the heart of a network with many components. “As a bus operator I would love my passengers, my customers, to be more vociferous,” he said. “And I would agree with Seb that, actually, we have to work together. We will never find a solution unless it’s one that works for everybody.”

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Mayor warns affordable housing providers about maintenance standards

Sadiq Khan has pledged to use his power as a funder of affordable homes in London to improve the maintenance and management of existing dwellings as well as new ones, following his Deputy Mayor for Housing, Tom Copley writing to all of City Hall’s housing “investment partners” about the issue last month.

“London is building some of the most impressive new affordable homes in the country,” the Mayor said, “but it is vital that existing residents experience high standards too. Most social housing in London is well managed and maintained. However, this is unfortunately not always the case.”

Copley began his three-page letter of 23 September by pointing out to recipients of Khan’s 2021-26 investment programme that “the social housing sector has been under increased scrutiny from the government and the media”, apparent references to a House of Commons committee inquiry into poor standards and exposés such as a year-long ITV investigation of conditions endured by tenants in a number of English cities, including London.

He set out the legal position regarding investment partner (IP) status and the regulations recipient organisations must comply with and possible sanctions if they fail, including the withholding or withdrawal of grants. The Greater London Authority (GLA) is party to a memorandum of understanding with the national Regulator of Social Housing.

Reduced IP status can only be restored by re-applying for it, a process which will now entail answering more questions than before about “housing management experience”. Underling a more stringent approach, Copley added: “For the avoidance of doubt, for all GLA funding programmes that require IP status to be maintained, there may be other triggers for a review of IP status”.

In February City Hall produced analysis indicating that 15% of London’s social rent properties as a whole fail to meet the government’s decent home standard and that most tenants who had complained about conditions in their homes had been unhappy with the response from their landlord or management organisation.

Khan and Copley have backed the Social Housing Regulation Bill currently going through Parliament, which is intended to strengthen the rights of residents, and Khan said today he will continue to call on the government to also take responsibility for pushing for higher standards, including by making much needed additional funding available”.

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Saving Marble Arch Marks & Spencer building will cause ‘terminal harm’ to Oxford Street, retailer’s barrister says

Rejecting the plan to demolish and replace Marks and Spencer’s flagship store will cause “terminal harm” to Oxford Street, the retailer’s barrister Russell Harris KC warned today as the public inquiry into the controversial scheme got underway.

The inquiry was announced in June after communities secretary Michael Gove stepped in to block Westminster Council’s approval of the plan, which would see a new 10-storey office and retail building on the prominent site near Marble Arch where an M&S store has stood since 1929. The council was Conservative-run at the time, but was won by Labour in May.

Gove, who was reappointed to his post earlier today, will face a finely-balanced decision when inspector David Nicholson makes his recommendations – one between the need for “urgent” investment to secure the future of Oxford Street, according to M&S, and growing climate change concerns about the impact of “embodied carbon”, the CO2 gas released by demolition and construction.

Conservation groups spearheaded by SAVE Britain’s Heritage are leading the charge, citing the scheme’s upfront cost of 39,500 tonnes of carbon and billing the inquiry as the first major planning test of “our disposable, knock it down and re-build attitude to our cities and historic buildings”. The decision will have “potentially far-reaching consequences for construction and development”, according to the Architects’ Journal.

But setting out his stall to the inquiry, Harris had an apocalyptic vision of his own of the area’s “inevitable decline” in the face of the “worst retail environment in 50 years” if the scheme did not go ahead, with M&S having no commercial option other than to vacate the site. “M&S will leave if the application is refused,” he said.

The start of the inquiry followed yesterday’s opening of the new Bond Street Elizabeth Line station, accommodating 137,000 passengers a day and heralded by Sadiq Khan as a “huge boost” for retail and hospitality in the West End. But bricks and mortar investment is needed too, in office space as well as retail, to sustain the footfall the area needs, said Harris.

Nearby Selfridges also weighed in to back the M&S plan as important in “maintaining Oxford Street as the UK’s national shop window,” Harris pointed out, adding that a recent bid to get the existing building “listed” had failed, with the government deciding it was of insufficient architectural or historic interest.

The environmental case that will be centre stage over the coming two weeks, however, with SAVE witnesses including architect and embodied carbon expert Simon Sturgis lining up to challenge M&S claims that there is no viable option for rehabilitation, and that the new building will in fact be one of the most sustainable in London – arguments already accepted by the council under its previous administration and by Mayor Khan.

For Harris this is a rematch with Nicholson, the inspector who dismissed his pleas on behalf of the similarly contentious Tulip plan for a 305-metre viewing platform in the heart of the City last year, including on the grounds that its use of “vast quantities of reinforced concrete” would be “highly unsustainable” – the first formal citing of embodied carbon as a reason to refuse planning permission.

Mindful of that verdict, M&S is highlighting the energy efficiency of the scheme, as well as its high quality, and adding a pledge to recycle or reuse some 95% of the current building’s materials, including some in the new structure, promoting “circular economy” principles.

Commentators acknowledge the scheme is different from the Tulip too, a scheme in which Nicholson found insufficient benefits for business or for tourism to outweigh his concerns. With the West End continuing to struggle post-Covid, the balance could well be different this time.

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Elizabeth Line Bond Street station ‘huge boost’ for West End, says Mayor

London’s West End retail and hospitality sector, so important to the capital’s and the UK’s economy, have received what Sadiq Khan described as “a huge boost” with the opening this morning of the new Bond Street Elizabeth Line station in Mayfair.

With entrances on Davies Street and Hanover Square, the new station, which was not complete when the central section of the new railway came into operation in May, can accommodate 137,000 passengers a day. This increases the overall capacity of Bond Street, which already served the Jubilee and Central lines through its Oxford Street-facing section, to 225,000.

Footfall in the West End as a whole is still struggling to recover to pre-pandemic levels, with research for the New West End Company business group, published earlier this month, indicating that it is still about a fifth lower than before Covid-19 struck.

James Raynor, chief executive of major West End property owner Grosvenor Property UK, said the Bond Street Elizabeth Line station becoming operational will provide “a significant boost to businesses across the West End in the run-up to the festive season” and demonstrates the “wider economic opportunities created through public investment in infrastructure”.

Grosvenor is preparing 65 Davies Street above the Davies Street entrance for opening next September and developing the two-acre South Molton Triangle retail, office and leisure scheme opposite it, with work starting next year.

The design detail of the new station and surrounding “public realm” was completed by architects Hawkins Brown, Artist Darren Almond has created three pieces displayed at the Davies Street ticket hall based on locomotive nameplates, including Horizon Line (shown above).

Excavation work for the station revealed a former channel of the ancient River Tyburn, which was once a feature of central London and continues to flow into the Thames from Hampstead underground.

Reporters and London transport enthusiasts caught the first Elizabeth Line train to stop at Bond Street – a 05:47 departure – and joined the Mayor and Transport for London commissioner Andy Byford on the platform.

Among them was Ian Mansfield, whose coverage includes 20 photos from his journey and visit, and BBC London presenter Asad Ahmad, who described “a handful of train enthusiastic YouTubers wearing dinner suits and Elizabeth Line coloured waistcoats” alighting and “being treated like Hollywood stars”.

Elizabeth Line trains will continue to arrive every five minutes and increase to every three or four minutes from 6 November, when passengers will be able to travel the full length of the line, from Heathrow and Reading to the west of London and Shenfield to the east, without any longer having to stop and change at Paddington or Liverpool Street as at present. There will be no service on 30 October.

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Business group tells London Tory MPs next leader must meet ‘highest standards of honesty’

A leading London business group has called on London’s Conservative MPs to select a party leader and next Prime Minister with “the highest standards of honesty and personal probity” as they prepare to cast their votes before tomorrow’s 2pm deadline, with roughly half of them yet to make public which candidate will get their support.

The individual open letters from Richard Burge, chair of the London Chamber of Commerce and Industry (LCCI) which represents thousands of firms in the capital, will be taken as a heavy hint that former PM Boris Johnson, himself a London MP, who was forced out of Number 10 in July following a series of scandals, should not be backed, as allies continue to signal that he will formally enter the contest late in the day.

The “highest standards” tests is one of five the chamber wants MPs to apply when making their decisions, the other four being “credibility with the markets”, the ability to “deliver market stability”, willingness to listen small and medium sized firms, and a commitment to a medium term energy price strategy for businesses.

The BBC’s running list of all 357 Tory MPs shows that only eight of the 21 representing seats in Greater London have disclosed their preference, with six of them backing the former Chancellor Rishi Sunak and two favouring Johnson, who stepped down as PM following mass resignations from his cabinet in the wake of the so-called “partygate” affair. A House of Commons committee is investigating whether Johnson misled fellow MPs about the matter.

Sunak has a big lead in declarations so far, with more than 140 compared with the 23 of Penny Mordaunt, the only other candidate officially in the running, and Johnson’s 57. A list compiled by the Guardian also includes Elliot Colburn (Carshalton & Wallington), who the paper says has endorsed Mordaunt.

London MPs appearing on both the BBC and Guardian lists as Sunak supporters are:

  • Stephen Hammond (Wimbledon).
  • Greg Hands (Chelsea & Fulham).
  • Bob Neil (Bromley & Chislehurst).
  • Chris Philp (Croydon South).
  • David Simmonds (Ruislip, Northwood & Pinner).
  • Theresa Villiers (Chipping Barnet).

Those publicly backing Johnson are:

  • Matthew Offord (Hendon).
  • Andrew Rosindell (Romford).

Explaining why he had written to the MPs, Burge said: “The markets have all but lost faith in the UK and British businesses are facing the worst economic headwinds in a generation. We cannot have Conservative MPs playing political games at such a critical time. Given the challenges faced by business across the UK, the national interest must come before party and personal interests.”

Photograph: Max Curwen-Bingley.

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John Vane’s London Stories: Strand station, a heritage asset looking for love

If you had been in charge of a tube railway company at the tail end of the 19th century, you might quite reasonably have thought there would be heavy demand for a station serving the Strand, what with its theatres, hotels and musical halls attracting visitors from far and wide. There was even a song about its powerful allure: Let’s All Go Down The Strand, written by performer Harry Castling and composer Charles William Murphy in the 1890s, was already becoming a London anthem.

The Great Northern and Strand Railway company secured permission from Parliament in 1899 to build a station at the junction of Kingsway and Aldwych, before merging with the Brompton and Piccadilly Circus company to form the Great Northern, Piccadilly and Brompton Railway. (GNPBR) Although the name “Strand” did not appear in its title, in October 1905 this new company began building a Strand station on the vacant site of the Royal Strand Theatre, which had closed the previous spring.

It was designed by Leslie Green, Maida Vale-born architect of the Underground Electric Railways of London, the holding company of the GNPBR, in the style for which he is famous: oxblood red tiles and big semi-circular windows in the spirit that had given Art Nouveau to the world. There were two ways in to Strand station and one way out: an entrance and exit on Surrey Street and and the compact entrance on Strand itself (pictured). It opened for passengers in November 1907, yet somehow never quite caught on.

Why? From the start it seems to have been treated as a bit of a tenuous add-on to what would eventually be a section of the Piccadilly Line, linked by shuttle to Holborn. A late-night special service for theatre audiences was discontinued within a year. Generally low passenger numbers saw the withdrawal of a peak hour service, and in 1914 a whole tunnel was taken out of use. The following year, the station was renamed Aldwych – the Strand name was appended to the Northern Line stop at Charing Cross instead – but that didn’t seem to help.

In 1917, all services on Sundays ceased. In 1922, the ticket office was closed, and closure of the entire station was considered in 1929 and 1933 before it finally happened in 1940, when the station served as a Blitz air raid shelter instead. It re-opened in 1946, but patronage did not increase. Service levels inched downwards, and by 1962, despite being near King’s College, Somerset House and the Bush House home of the BBC World Service, trains arrived at and departed from Aldwych station only at peak times, Monday to Friday.

This went on for three decades until, in January 1993, it was announced that the station would shut for good. And in September 1994, it did.

Today, the Strand entrance, though shorn of its Aldwych rebrand canopy, looks out rather sadly at the newly-pedestrianised section of the famous street from which it takes its name. The station isn’t derelict. It’s still in operational order. Its part-time and redundant interiors have been recruited since the 1950s as sets for movies and TV shows, and increasingly so this century. There’s been a plan to incorporate it into a cycling rail trail. But no progress has been made with that. And, for now, no-one seems willing or able to even spruce up the exterior of this Grade II-listed heritage asset so patently in need of love.

Let’s All Go Down The Strand? Where its Tube station is concerned, there’s just never been enough of us, it seems.

John Vane writes word sketches of London and bits about its past. Sometimes he makes things up. Follow John on Twitter.

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Categories: Culture, John Vane's London Stories

Lambeth: True number of children’s home sex abuse victims unlikely to ever be known

The true number of children sexually abused while being looked after in Lambeth Council children’s homes between the 1950s and 1980s is “likely to be higher” than estimated, a new report has warned.

A report into child sexual abuse across England and Wales said it was unlikely the council had been able to identify all victims. More than 1,900 people have received payouts from Lambeth through its compensation scheme, which closed earlier this year.

The Independent Inquiry into Child Sexual Abuse (IICSA) report said “its investigations into children in the care of Lambeth Council” and also councils in Nottinghamshire concluded that “the true number of victims of child sexual abuse likely to be higher than the local authorities had been able to identify”.

The 468-page report summarised the findings of the child abuse inquiry’s 15 investigations, including that into Lambeth’s historic abuse scandal. Lambeth’s current leader, Claire Holland, welcomed the report and its recommendation for a national compensation scheme for sex abuse victims.

She said: “We welcome today’s publication of the IICSA final report. Its recommendations are vital for all public institutions to ensure children are kept safe from harm.

Holland added: “The report also recommends the need for comprehensive redress for those who were so very badly let down. Lambeth Council has been calling for a national redress scheme since 2016, having launched our own compensation scheme in 2017 to acknowledge the suffering experienced by the survivors of abuse at our former children’s homes.”

Over £87 million has been paid to victims by the council. Lambeth said it had issued all known victims with a formal apology, offered them counselling and provided them with independent legal representation when applying for compensation.

A report into abuse at Lambeth’s children’s homes published in 2021 said only one senior Lambeth council worker was punished over failures to deal with the 40-year child sexual abuse scandal. The IICSA report restates the failings identified.

It said the “politicised” behaviour of the left-wing Labour-run council in the 1980s meant most elected officials at the time were “distracted from their primary task of providing good quality public services, including children’s social care”.

The council’s refusal under the late “Red” Ted Knight to set a council tax rate in 1986, in defiance of Margaret Thatcher’s Conservative government, resulted in 33 councillors being removed.

A third of Lambeth’s foster care placements were scrapped after the council reviewed criminal record checks in the late 1990s. Describing the sexual abuse inflicted on children in the care of the council as “hard to comprehend,” the report said those who ran the council at the time “simply did not care enough to prioritise the protection of children”.

“We have apologised to the victims and survivors for the inexcusable and appalling mistreatment they were subjected to,” holland said. “On behalf of this council I wish to restate our sincere and heartfelt apology to all victims and survivors of abuse and neglect whilst in Lambeth’s care.”

Report from Local Democracy Reporting Service.

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Vic Keegan’s Lost London 240: The Lost Palace of Westminster

Every day thousands of people travel through a street in central London unaware that they are walking through what is almost certainly the biggest single part of Lost London. Of all the buildings that have been lost to the capital none can compete – at least in size – with Henry VIII’s Palace of Westminster. He moved there in 1529 when the historic Palace of Westminster was destroyed by fire. It is marked today as Old Palace Yard behind the ancient Westminster Hall,

The new Palace occupied both sides of Whitehall from today’s Parliament Square almost to Charing Cross. It was to be the main residence of the monarch and in historian Simon Thurley’s words “the epicentre of the main events in England for nearly two centuries”.

 It dominated the entire area with a startling 1,500 rooms making it bigger – and much uglier – than Louis lV’s Versailles or the Vatican. In its defence, Louis had the advantage of planning from scratch whereas Whitehall Palace was assembled in a spatchcock way from Cardinal Wolsey’ sequestered York Palace. In addition to government offices, hospitality functions and dwellings for nobles it included a bowling green, a cockpit (behind today’s number 70 Whitehall), a tennis court and a jousting yard in Horse Guards Parade.

The Victorian historian Augustus J Hare reminds us that Henry “obtained an act of parliament enacting that “the entire space between Charing Cross and the sanctuary at Westminster, from the Thames on the east side to the park wall westward, should from henceforth be deemed the Kings whole Palace of Westminster“. Bad luck if you owned a house in the way.

And what is visible today? Nothing at all apart from Inigo Jones’s majestic Banqueting Hall which was in any case a later addition in 1607 and the remnants of Queen Mary ll’s  steps to the Thames (above) which were re-designed on a Tudor original in 1691 by Sir Christopher Wren.

The only bits that have survived are invisible to the public eye. The most dramatic is Cardinal Wolsey’s wine cellar – appropriated along with the Cardinal’s other property by Henry which has been preserved somewhat bizarrely under the Ministry of Defence building in Horse Guards Avenue. It is sadly not open to the public unless you have a bit of luck. Part of the wall of Henry’s tennis court has been incorporated into a wall of the Treasury and a reconstructed Cockpit is also in the bowels of the building.

Looking at the 1570 Agas map (above) you get a good idea what Whitehall was like. Two gatehouses straddled the road to connect the eastern and western parts of the palace of which the Holbein Gate (to the north) was reckoned to have been more picturesque than the Westminster Gate to the south.

Historians mainly write about governance and architecture but rarely about the people who lived here partly to service the needs of the court and Abbey. If they wanted to get to the village of Charing they would have had to walk through the royal palace and between the two gateways as there was no other way, Henry appropriated St James’s Park for his own use including the leper hospital purchased from Eton College (to become St James’s Palace). The only alternative was to pay for a wherry to take you along the Thames.

Henry VIII’s Whitehall Palace met a sorry end in 1698 when it was accidently burned down by a servant airing linen too close to a fire. A royal residence destroyed twice by fire is beginning to look a bit spooked. But there is one happy exception to this. Although Henry’s two later palaces were destroyed key parts of the one he vacated in 1530 are still there.

The marvellous Westminster Hall started by William Rufus (1056 – 1100) with what is believed still to be the biggest hammer beam roof in the world, is still there in all its glory as is Edward lll’s Jewel Tower which is now a fine outdoor café as well as a bijoux museum. They are both on Thorney Island formed by the confluence of the River Tyburn, now lost underground in the sewage system, but which still rolls down from the Hampstead hills to meet the Thames. Also on Thorney Island are both houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and Westminster School, arguably the biggest concentration of “history’ in the country.

All previous instalments of Vic Keegan’s Lost London can be found here and a book containing many of them can be bought here. Follow Vic on Twitter and also as @LondonStreetWalker.

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